|
 Humidors
 A
humidor is simply a well made box designed exclusively for the
purpose of storing cigars. Many of the better ones have lift
out trays and dividers which are of great benefit. These features
help you organize your cigars and allow easy access to the cigars
you might wish to smoke at any given time.
They come in a wide variety
of sizes, shapes, and colors. Some are simple classic designs
while others are wildly exotic. Humidors can be quite expensive
so you should view a wide variety and take your time when selecting
one. A good humidor should not only serve your needs, but your
sense of beauty as well.
 Pre-Purchase
Humidor Tips:
There is no such thing as a
high quality inexpensive humidor. Be prepared to spend $300 or
more for a 150+ cigar humidor. If you can not afford to spend
that much and are not very humidor savvy my advice is to not
buy one until you can afford one. Using a "tupperdor"
or "igloodor" is far less expensive and less aggravating
than trying to stabilize an inexpensive humidor. Both of these
storage methods are discussed below in the "Alternative
Cigar Storage Methods" section.
Does that mean there are no
good humidors for under that price? No, there are some very serviceable
humidors on the market for less than $300. However, you need
to be extra critical when purchasing one and you should not expect
most of them to be as stable or well made as those priced higher.
If you live in an area where the ambient climate is close to
an ideal cigar RH then this probably won't be as important. However,
if you live in place where the ambient humidity drops below 45%
RH then you need to be more concerned. A good humidor will not
only protect your cigars, but will quickly become a cheirshed
piece of heirloom furniture. If you are interested in economical
cigar storage you will most likely be better served by maintaining
your cigars in a plastic container.
 When selecting a humidor it is best to
select one with 5/8" or greater wall thickness. This thickness
provides a good buffer between the outside ambient climate and
your prized cigars.
There are many exceptional
wood choices, but the standard is mahogany. You will never go
wrong selecting a high quality mahogany box.
Spanish cedar liner is a big
plus. It serves three functions:
First it acts as an additional
buffering agent since the wood is absorbent and regulates at
60%-70% along with your cigars.
Secondly, it helps to discourage
beetle infestations from moving around from cigar to cigar. Beetles
and other pests dislike the bitter flavor of Spanish Cedar.
And finally, it imparts a slightly
spicy flavor to your cigars as they age. This taste is appreciated
by most smokers.
If you do not like this flavor
note do not hesitate to not have a Spanish Cedar lining - it
is not essential. However, western cedar, red cedar, and/or aromatic
cedar are NOT suitable substitutes for Spanish cedar. These woods
will ruin the flavor of your cigars.
Look for a humidor with quality
workmanship throughout. Tight seal, good corner joints, perfect
hinge installation. etc. A good humidor will be heavy and solid,
and this is essential to prevent warping in the future. Remember
a humidor endures a tremendous amount of stress. For example
in the winter where I live the heat runs constantly resulting
in an indoor ambient humidity of roughly 30%, yet my humidors
maintain a constant near 67% on the inside. This type of immense
relative humidity delta puts a tremendous strain on the wood
and the joints of any humidor.
 Lift
out trays and movable dividers are a big plus when selecting
a humidor, particularly if made of Spanish cedar.
Make certain that there is
room in the lid for the humidifying device you will utilize.
You don't want to have wasted space because your Credo hangs
too low in your humidor.
Make certain that all exterior
sides of the humidor are sealed, including the bottom.
Remember that claims of being
a 25/50/75/100/200+ capacity humidor are typically based on corona/corona
extra sized cigars. If you primarily smoke large cigars it is
important to adjust these numbers as appropriate. Also if you
are buying the humidor via mail order ask for the inside dimensions
so you can confirm that it has the storage volume you desire.
Only purchase a humidor from a retailer and/or manufacturer that
is willing to stand behind their product 100%. Ensure that they
will refund your money upon demand, if they won't - Buy Elsewhere!
Breaking in your New Humidor:
First step in breaking in a
new humidor is to be absolutely certain that your hygrometer
is accurate. To do so, perform the Salt Calibration Test
included in the Hygrometer section below.
A brand new humidor requires
time to come up to the appropriate humidity. Depending on your
climate and how dry the wood is this can take as little as a
few days to upwards of a few weeks.
You can speed up this break-in
period by wiping the insides down with a towel moistened with
distilled water. BUT be very careful to not over do it, because
if you do you will cause an ugly water stain on the inside of
your pristine humidor. Personally, I DO NOT recommend you do
this; it is much better to just be patient and allow your humidor
to come up to humidity on its own.
It is not necessary to initially
charge a Credo with propylene glycol. It comes from the manufacturer
already pre-charged, as do most humidifiers. If in doubt, you
should ask the tobacconist or manufacturer. If they don't know
then go ahead and rinse the humidifier completely, allow to dry,
and then begin with a 50/50 charge of PG and distilled water.
After your humidor reaches
63% or so it is a good idea to introduce cigars to it. A humidor
will stabilize better and more evenly when 75%+ of its volume
is full. Try to maintain this volume of cigars at all times if
possible. Open air space inside a humidor is your enemy. By the
way, this is an excellent and legitimate explanation to give
your spouse as to why you MUST buy another two boxes of your
favorites cigars.
Maintaining
your Humidor:
 Add distilled water to your humidifier
when the relative humidity begins to dip. After the humidor has
been stabilized this dip should occur slow and steady... 69%,
68%, 67% and so on. Typically I add distilled water when I hit
64% or so. Remember to NOT saturate the Credo, but to only moisten
it! This is the biggest error most new humidor owners make, keep
in mind that a Credo not only raises the humidity to 70% RH,
but it also lowers the humidity when it exceeds this level. Therefore
it is essential that there be room left within the Credo's volume
to absorb the excess moisture if necessary.
Only use distilled water. Tap
water has chemicals and minerals that you do not want in contact
with your cigars as they age. Also tap water contains organics
and is prone to developing mold. Distilled water is the only
readily available water that is free of both mineral and organic
impurities.
Do not be anal retentive about
the RH humidity. Any number between 64% and 72% is fine, truth
is every cigar smokes different. Some will be best at 68%, while
other less tightly rolled cigars will burn better at 72%. Some
people like their cigars even drier and try to keep them closer
to 60%. Ignore what everyone tells you about 70/70 and experiment
with slightly drier and wetter humidities until you find what
you like best. Personally, I prefer 65%-67% RH as the ideal relative
humidity.
Temperature control is not
nearly as critical as the humidity. Any temperature between 50-75
degrees is fine. A couple of notes though, at the lower temp
the aging process slows down, while at the higher temp the hatching
of the dreaded tobacco beetle is a potential risk. More importantly
always keep your humidor out of the sunlight - being bathed in
the sun's rays drastically escalates the internal temperature
within the box. Also never place it on a television set or near
a stereo system, as any such electronic device will generate
considerable heat.
Totally DISREGARD any table
or advice explaining that the ideal humidity for storing your
cigars changes depending on the temperature. This is a myth that
sadly has been published in some otherwise respectable publications.
It is based on the principles of absolute moisture content and
not relative humidity. 70% relative humidity is 70% relative
humidity regardless of the temperature hence the term "relative."
Humidifiers
Humidifiers
are what maintain the desired relative humidity within your humidor.
There are two primary
types of humidifiers: Active and Passive.
 Active
humidifiers are electrically powered and typically utilize
a built in electronic sensor to determine whether they should
add moisture to the air. A few very top end units will also extract
extra moisture content from the air, but most do not. Typically
these units are very expensive and are intended for use with
large furniture size humidor cabinets, however there are a few
on the market for smaller humidors. One distinct advantage of
active humidifiers is that you can typically set them to maintain
a lower relative humidity easily if you so desire.
 Passive
humidifiers do not rely on any power whatsoever, are of simple
design, and utilize basic vapor conduction to regulate relative
humidity. These devices are typically inexpensive and serve almost
everyone's humidifier needs. Although not as sophisticated as
active humidifiers, passive ones very capable of providing a
stable environment for your cigars. Not only are they utilized
in desktop humidors, but also in large cabinet furniture-size
ones as well.
Commonly passive humidifiers
are referred to as "Credos" regardless of their actual
brand. This is because the Credo Company manufactures the unit
that is regarded as the benchmark for passive humidifiers.
Passive humidifiers have traditionally
been constructed of sponge, clay, or oasis florist foam encased
in a perforated container. The foam is moistened with distilled
water and then placed within the humidor. Of the three different
materials clay is the most durable while the oasis foam is the
best for regulating because of its open cell structure that allows
for it to retain large quantities of water. Any of the three
are functional, but personally I recommend you opt for units
utilizing the green oasis florist foam.
Passive humidifiers control
the relative humidity within your humidor by hydroscopic interaction
with the air's moisture content. In lay terms, it basically expels
moisture from the humidifier when the ambient relative humidity
is below 70% and absorbs water when the ambient relative humidity
is above 70% RH. It accomplishes this task via the chemical Propylene
Glycol which acts as the hydroscopic agent. Most passive humidifiers
are charge with a 50/50 solution of PG and distilled water.
 Propylene
Glycol (PG) is an inert chemical that is used in a wide range
of products including animal feed, hair care products, medicines,
etc. It is safe to handle and consume if you so desire. It can
be bought at most cigar stores but typically it is labeled as
"Regulating Solution" and is sold for upwards of $20
for two ounces. I suggest you buy it from your local pharmacy
instead when it usually can be bought from the pharmacist's counter
for about $7 a pint.
When the humidity dips below
70% RH in your humidor the PG expels the water contained in the
humidifer, but when the relative humidity is over 70% it absorbs
water. This is why it is critical to never overfill your humidifier
as it needs to have room left in order for it to absorb moisture
if need. Over time the PG will expend all of the water contained
within the humidifier assuming you live in area with a lower
than 70% RH and it will require you to add more distilled water.
You do not have to add more PG though, as it will remain in the
humidifier until you rinse it out. In addition to it regulatory
properties, PG also serves as an anti-bacterial agent which will
help to prevent molding.
Almost all commercially available
humidifiers come pre-charged with PG so there is no need to add
any in the beginning. If in doubt, you can rinse it thoroughly
allow it to dry, and recharge with the 50/50 solution. Over time
your PG will slowly evaporate from the humidifier, so I recommend
you rinse clean and recharge your humidifier with 50/50 once
ever year or two.
Over recent years an alternative
to PG regulated foam-style passive humidifiers has been introduced
to the cigar smoking public. These newer units utilize a silica
gel bounded with a salt derivative to maintain the relative humidity
of 70% RH. These Salt-treated silicon dioxide beads work on the
same basic hysteresis loop type interaction. Many people swear
by the performance of these new crystal based humidifiers.
You
can make a homemade humidifier with the following materials:
WET Oasis Foam - this is the type used for live floral
arrangements, do not use DRY Oasis foam, it will not work. WET
Oasis foam is available at all florist and most craft stores.
Propylene Glycol (PG) - Chemical available from your
pharmacist's counter for roughly $7 a pint. This is the "secret
ingredient" in all regulating agents such as Credo's Special
Care solution.
Distilled Water - available at most grocery stores
Any Container - travel soapdish, film tube, etc
etc.
For example, take a travel
soap dish and drill numerous holes to allow substantial airflow
throw the walls of the container. Cut the foam small enough to
fit loosely into the container - it must be small enough to allow
for adequate air circulation around its surface. Mix a 50/50
solution of PG and distilled water, and moisten your oasis foam
with the mixture. Remember MOISTEN... do not saturate!!! And
voila' a homemade "Credo" and for much less than those
commercially sold... amazing huh? Also keep in mind it takes
a couple of days for the humidifier itself to stabilize before
it can begin to regulate your humidor properly.
A couple final items regarding
humidifiers that you should keep in mind:
The size/number of humidifiers
necessary depends on a number of things: ambient climate, your
humidor's construction, number of times a day it is opened, how
many cigars are in it, etc. But a good rule of thumb is:
40 or less cigars - 1 Credo Rondo
40 - 100 cigars - 1 Credo Precision 70
100 - 200 cigars - 2 Credo Precision 70s
|
Credo Precision
70 |
A humidifier can never be too
large, bigger is better with an emphasis towards more surface
area rather than thickness.
Always remember to never overcharge
them with distilled water.
 Always
utilize distilled water. It will prevent clogging and is far
less likely to cause molding in your humidor. I am always amazed
by people who try to say their tap water is "this and that"
filtered ­ don't be so cheap. You are storing cigars worth
typically hundreds of dollars and distilled water costs $0.99
a gallon at the grocery store.
All passive humidifiers will
require a couple of days to settle in after being initially charged.
Do not expect your humidor to be at 70% RH in just a few hours.
And most importantly, all humidifiers
are going to regulate within a range of the desired RH ­
do not wig out over being a few percentage points off.
Hygrometers
 Hygrometers
are utilized to measure relative humidity and are commonly used
by cigar smokers within their humidors to verify the proper humidity
level is being maintained.
Both mechanical and electronic
ones are available. Typically the mechanical ones are more attractive,
while the electronic ones tend to be more accurate. But this
is not always the case.
 Sadly,
many hygrometers, both mechanical and electronic, are grossly
inaccurate and require either adjustment or simply replacement.
One of the easiest methods of verifying the accuracy of your
hygrometer is to perform a Salt Calibration Test.
Without boring you with the
chemistry of why, let me simply state that this test will always
result in an achieving an exact relative humidity level of 75%.
The
Salt Calibration Test procedures are:
|
Materials required: |
- Tablespoon of Plain Table
Salt (NaCl)
- Two Ziplock-style baggies
- Bottle Cap or other suitable
small container
- Swizzle Stick or other such
item to stir with
- Distilled Water
- Your Hygrometer
|
Place the tablespoon of salt
on the bottle cap. The wide mouth ones that are used on individual
serving juice or tea bottles are ideal.
Slowly add distilled water
to the salt while blending with the swizzle stick. You want to
add just enough water to moisten the salt so that it begins to
meld into a thick paste. Do not add enough water to dissolve
the salt!
Place the bottle cap with salt
gently into the first ziplock bag and then add you hygrometer.
Make certain the sensor is exposed and free of being block by
the bag.
Seal the bag while capturing
some air inside of it. Then place into the second bag and seal
again. The double bags are needed to ensure that you really have
a good seal as the test will not work if there are any leaks.
Then place the bag in a place
that is free of direct sunlight and is of a stable temperature.
Leave undisturbed for a minimum
of 8 hours.
Check the reading on the hygrometer
through the transparent baggies and it should read on or near
75% RH.
Remember most small inexpensive
hygrometers are only accurate to within 3% so do not be surprised
if it reads 72% or 78% RH. It is exactly 75% RH within the confines
of the bag due to the salt paste reacting with the air, and what
your hygrometer reads differently is the amount of error.
What to do about off-reading
depends on the circumstances. If your hygrometer has an adjustment
potentiometer then by all means try to tweak it to exactly 75%.
You should repeat the Salt Calibration Test again after making
any adjustments. If your hygrometer doesn't have the ability
to be adjusted and the reading is close then don't worry about
it ­ just remember that your hygrometer is X% off either
high or low.
If the reading is grossly in
error and you are unable to adjust it, then I suggest you replace
it.
And finally, let me say that
hygrometers are not really necessary. You will find over time
that you will gain the experience to be able to judge the relative
humidity within your humidor by simply touching and smoking your
cigars.
Alternative Cigar Storage Methods:
 A humidor is NOT essential to cigar
storage. In fact there are many inexpensive and effective means
for maintaining and aging your cigars. Two of the most popular
ones are "Tupperdors" and "Igloodors."
A Tupperdor is nothing more
than a plastic resealable food container. You can use Tupperware
or any other similar product. These are inexpensive and very
effective. Simply add a humidifier and you are all set. Many
people place those cedar separator sheets that come from boxes
of cigars on the bottom of their tupperdors to introduce the
element of Spanish cedar. Remember to store your tupperdors in
a dark cool place.
An Igloodor is simply a large
ice cooler like those made by the Igloo or Coleman companies.
They come in a wide variety of sizes with the most common being
a 48 qt. model, but I know many people that utilize the giant
128 qt. models. This is an ideal way to store full boxes of cigar
very inexpensively. Some people line the interior by attaching
Spanish cedar with a non-toxic scentfree adhesive and others
even create dividers. You can make a large humidifier, but one
of the easiest solutions it to just place a trimmed brick of
oasis foam in the small plastic tray that many of them come with.
Igloodors are also commonly referred to as "Coolerdors."
There are only two minor drawbacks
to using these for long term cigar storage:
1) They are more susceptible to becoming over humidified
since their plastic walls do not help to buffer the relative
humidity so it is extra important to not overcharge your humidifier.
Because of the risk of higher moisture levels you need to be
on the alert for the possibility of mold forming.
2) They can not breathe as a traditional humidor
will. Therefore, they will trap the ammonia and off gases generated
by your cigars aging within them. To alleviate this problem you
should open them at least once a month to allow for an exchange
of fresh air.
I have used both of these alternatives
for many years to no detriment. However, most aficionados will
eventually purchase a humidor as there is a sense of great satisfaction
when selecting a fine cigar to smoke from a well-crafted humidor
rather than a plastic container. It only seems fitting that a
premium cigar should be kept in a beautiful humidor.
Cigar Aging
I wholeheartedly subscribe
to the theory that aging has a critical impact on a cigar's body
and flavor. Initial aging after their rolling is essential to
allow the cigar to dry and stabilize. Not only will this greatly
improve the flavor, but also greatly improve the burn and draw.
Stabilization takes only 6 to 8 weeks, however allowing your
cigars to age even longer will let the flavors of the blend meld
and mellow into a more harmonious smoke. A cigar's complexities
and nuances will be greatly enhanced with long-term aging in
a proper environment.
On the other hand, I am also
a firm believer that cigars do not perpetually age for the better.
Every cigar eventually hits its peak, and from there on it is
downhill. So it is just as important to not overage your cigars,
as it is to age them in the first place.
 The younger the cigar the more drastic
the impact time has upon it; 3 months can mean a world of difference
to a freshly rolled cigar, whereas 3 months are negligible when
dealing with 15 year old sticks.
Over time you cigars will slightly
shrink and you will be able to move their rings up and down their
length uninhibited by friction. This is a classic tell tale sign
of a well-aged cigar and one that will most likely be an optimum
smoke. Not only will it burn and draw better, it will taste smoother
and share its nuance with your palate.
Another tell-tale sign off
aged cigars is plume, also called bloom. This is a light whitish
gray powder that is left from the cigar's essential oils drying
on its surface, and is considered a very good sign that the proper
aging is taking place. Not all cigars develop plume, but those
that are heavy in oils almost always do over time. Cigars exhibiting
plume are typically exceptional in flavor.
Well-aged cigars are a cherished
commodity amongst most cigar connoisseurs and a luxury that sadly
most smokers never realize. For a more in depth discussion of
aging I suggest you read our Cigar Counsel
article on Cigar Aging.
Miscellaneous Cigar Storage Frequently
Asked Questions
Q: How long can I store
cigars in a ziploc-style baggie?
A: It depends entirely on your ambient
climate because every time you open the baggie the air within
will be exchanged. In some climates cigars can be kept in ziplocs
for literally a few months with no problems, while in very dry
climates a week may be the serviceable limit of using plastic
bags.
Q: I left the lid of
my humidor open for 8 hours and now it is 63% relative humidity
and I am worried about destroying my cigars! What do I do???
A: Don't worry about it. 63% is no big
deal and for 8 hours it is absolutely nothing. In fact some folks
like their cigars at 63% RH all the time. Your humidor will slowly
return to a higher RH, and if after a few days it doesn't then
add some water to your humidifier.
I know many books, magazines,
humidor makers, credo salesmen, and a bunch of others have given
you the impression that you must be at 70/70, but I swear on
my soul this is UNTRUE.
Cigars are far more durable
than the 70/70 zealots contend and can easily endure some time
at a lower humidity. In fact, many tobacconists overseas utilize
60-64% RH as their ideal RH for long term storage. Personally,
I like 65%-67% myself for smoking, and have smoked tons of cigars
kept at 60% RH with no problems whatsoever.
Some people would totally wig
out, but I leave GREAT cigars just laying around all the time.
I own a dozen plus humidors and only two of them even have hygrometers
in them. I just use my fingers to judge them.
It really isn't as critical
as some folks make it seem. And your scenario is a total non-issue.
So just close the lid and give your humidor a couple of days
to come up to the humidity you desire.
Too many new cigar smokers
get way too uptight over this humidity issue and it really is
the fault of the so-called "experts" constantly parroting
this 70/70 stuff. If you ask anyone that has been storing and
smoking cigars for years they would tell you to relax. The bottom
line is to not get overly upset about slight deviations in relatively
humidity. With time you will learn what you like, some people
prefer their smokes moister while others like them drier.
Q: How do I keep a humidor
with a passive humidifier at a lower RH?
A: Basically you add less water less
frequently. The PG in the humidifier can only expel the moisture
it contains so if you give it less water to work with your humidor
will be drier. Typically I never add water until I get distilled
water until I get to about 64% RH or so, and then I add just
small amounts. It varies with the season, the humidor, and how
often I open it. Over time you will simply learn how much water
your humidor needs and roughly at what interval.
Q: How long can I store
cigars?
A: Indefinitely. Under proper conditions
cigars can remain "smokable" for decades, even a century.
However, it is important to understand the difference between
"smokable" versus enjoyable. Over time all cigars will
begin to loose their essential oils and body. Eventually they
will become flavorless. How long this takes depends entirely
on the cigars themselves and varies greatly. I suggest you refer
to our Cigar Aging article
for further information.
Q: Can I store my cigars
in the refrigerator?
A: No, as it will lead to drying them
out. This use to be common and sound advice, but it no longer
holds true since almost all of today's refrigerators actually
dehydrate their interior to prevent condensation from forming
on their exterior. However, an old refrigerator or freezer that
you leave unplugged can make for an excellent alternative large
storage device for cigars.
Q: What do you think
of cigar jars?
A: They stink. Cigars tend to get chip
and split at the foot as a result of being stored on end. Also
jars can be difficult to select and pull a certain cigar from.
The only benefit is that a jar full of premium cigars looks great
sitting on your desk, however that means the jar must be transparent
and long term light exposure is bad for storing cigars.
Q: Should I leave the
cellophane on or take it off?
A: Leaving the cellophane on protects
the cigars from tattering and splitting while you handle them.
Also cellophaned cigars are easier to take on the "road"
and to send to friends.
Without the cellophane, cigars tend to breath better, and in
turn age better. Also I find it much more appealing to open my
humidor and see cigars in the nude.
Cellophane is permeable to water and air allowing their transfer
through its surface, but not as easily as without the cellophane.
So if I receive a batch of cigars that is freshly rolled I sometimes
remove the cello to allow the excess moisture incurred during
the rolling process to dissipate. Cigars that become too moist
in cellophane take a long time to dry out.
So as a general rule I leave the cellophane on cigars stored
loose in my bulk storage units or in their original boxes, but
take it off when I place them in my desktop humidors.
Either way is appropriate,
and in the end it is really just a matter of personal choice.
Q: Do cigars age in tubes?
A: Yes and no. Cigars seem to age some
in the tubes, but mostly I think this is due to most tubes not
having a true seal. In an absolutely sealed environment it is
impossible for a cigar to have the necessary oxygen required
for it to breath and age properly. You will note that on many
tubes it mentions that a cigar will "remain fresh until
opened" and personally I do not consider this an ultimately
desirable goal. Tubes are great for protecting cigars for a few
weeks, even months outside of a humidor if they have a good seal,
but if tubed cigars are to be kept longer and you wish to ensure
that they age properly I recommend you remove the end caps and
place them in your humidor. With all of that said I have smoked
many tubos whose seals were intact for years and their cigars
were quite tasty. But no matter what you do, always store tubed
cigars in a humidor if you are going to have them for any substantial
length of time since most seals are not perfect.
Q: Can I leave the cigars
in the boxes as they age?
A: Absolutely, in fact most collectors
do. However if the box is sealed with a plastic wrap you should
remove this prior to placing the box in your cabinet humidor
or igloodor.
Q: Will my cigars "marry"
if they are sitting side by side in my humidor without dividers
or cellophane?
A: No. I understand the concept of marrying,
and have witnessed claro cigars that have been slightly stained
with oils from a dark rich colorado cigar that were sitting beside
it, but that was only after MANY years. Honestly I do not consider
the marrying of different cigars to be a problem for those who
smoke from their humidors on a semi-regular basis.
I have been storing singles
side by side for well over a decade with no impact whatsoever.
Personally, I find the concept of marrying flavors between differing
cigars to be an issue that "cigar wonks" banter about,
but has little basis in reality and does not warrant any concern
on your part. You have to keep in mind when you read all the
recent advice printed about cigars that quite a bit of it is
far too reaching and overtly scientific without cause.
I have kept a wide variety of smokes crammed together for long
periods (5+ years) in my "smoke from someday" humidors
without this ever occurring. The only place I would be concerned
is to always keep flavored, i.e.. rum soaked, Lars, etc. separate.
Also for long term aging in quantity I believe in leaving the
cigars in their original boxes if possible.
Bottomline - the concept of cigar flavors marrying/blending is
overhyped.
Q: Should I rotate the
cigars in my humidor?
A: No. This is another bit of silly advice
that is often recommended by the anal retentive. The difference
between the relative humidity from the bottom to the top of your
humidor is insignificant and is certainly nothing to worry about.
Some "experts" have even suggested that by not rotating
your cigars that "all the oils will settle to the bottom
side." This is an incredibly lame statement. The essential
oils in a cigar will always seep in the direction of a drier
surface. In a stable environment this is almost always towards
the top which is the side exposed to air. You will see these
oils crystallize becoming plume (bloom) over the years. It is
possible for the cedar floor of your humidor to wick some oil
to the bottom, but it happens so seldom and without any negative
impact it is not even worthy of consideration. Eventually all
excess oils will dissipate without a trace except for possibly
bloom.
The only legit reason to rotate
stock within your humidor is because you want your cigars to
be more convenient for you to smoke. Less often smoked ones on
the bottom, and the ones you are grabbing all the time on the
top.
Q: Why does my humidor
smell like ammonia when I open it?
A: Ammonia is typically expelled by cigars
that are very young. Sometimes it is the result of them actually
containing under-cured tobacco, but most commonly in premium
cigars it means they are just young and require additional aging.
Q: Is it okay for me
to clip my cigars before putting them in the humidor?
A: Actually, there is a downside to pre-clipping
as it is the intact head that "cements" the wrapper
in place. Whenever you preclip a cigar you are increasing the
likelihood that it may unravel. The less stable your humidor
the more likely this will occur.
Now with that said, I have kept preclipped cigars for years with
no problem, while I have had others unroll themselves in days.
Also pre-punching has less of an impact, but again there is no
real benefit.
The are only two times I ever pre-clip: 1) I am hosting a large
party of infrequent cigar smokers who have little or no experience
with fine cigars, 2) I am on my way out the door and know that
I am going to smoke them in the very near future, I will sometimes
do the honors in advance.
My advice is that you just avoid the potential unraveling problem
and not make a habit of pre-clipping your smokes.
Q: I have noticed the
foots of my cigars are swelling. Why?
A: This is a classic sign of cigars that
are being over humidified.
Q: My cigars have something
on them. How can I tell if it is mold or bloom?
A: Bloom, also called plume, is a grey/white
residual powder that is left from the cigar's essential oils
drying on its surface, and is considered a very good sign that
the proper aging is taking place. Not all cigars develop bloom,
but those that are heavy in oils almost always do over time.
Mold always has some body to
it, it is actually a three dimensional "fuzz." Typically
it grows rather quickly once it occurs. Also it is commonly green,
green/blue, or green/yellow in color.
Typically plume will cover
almost evenly all the air-exposed sides of a cigar whereas mold
will begin growing on just one part and spread from there.
If you still can't the difference
I suggest you quarantine the potential problem cigars to their
own tupperdor for a couple of weeks. After which you should be
able to tell if it has continued to grow as mold would.
Q: Okay, it is mold...
now what?
A: You can just brush the mold off and
smoke them anyway. I have smoked a bunch of vintage cigars that
have had some mold on them. It takes considerable mold and time
to impact the flavor of the cigar - the biggest factor being
whether they have molded on the interior. If so they are goners,
if not you can just gently brush the mold off with a soft dry
cloth. However, you should quarantine them from your other cigars
to prevent it from spreading to them.
Q: I have noticed that some of my cigars have wrinkles
in the wrappers. What causes this?
A: "Wrinkly wrappers" are typically
caused by cigars which have experienced cycles of being over-humidified
and then under-humidified. By the way, this is commonly called
"crinkle" by many cigar collectors. It is the end result
of the cigar's wrapper being stretched by the expanding filler
when moist and the subsequent shrinkage when it dries. Basically
they are just like "stretch marks."
These are very common in vintage
cigars even if kept within ideal conditions. Over time the continuous
shifting of a couple of points of %RH will result in crinkling.
Also, this is not that uncommon in igloodors since the humidity
tends to shoot up and down drastically with opening and closing.
Unlike a wooden humidor, a cooler's plastic is unable to retain
an ambient RH. The longer a cigar has been stored the more likely
wrinkles are to occur.
Other than damaging the aesthetics,
it typically does not impact the smoke. However, the wrappers
will become more brittle as the wrinkling continues to occur
and may eventually lead to cracking and splitting.
Q: Can I revive dried
out cigars?
A: Sometimes. It depends on whether they
have lost all of the essential oils. The best way to revive dried
out cigars is to slowly bring them up to the desired humidity
within a dry humidor. Basically you allow the humidor and the
cigars reach the desired humidity simultaneously. If the cigars
retained their oils then they will still be worthwhile to smoke,
however if they have been dry for too long then they will have
lost most if not all of their desirable flavors.
Q: Can I store my cigars at a cooler temperature
than 50 degrees?
A: Certainly. Although it will slow down
the process of their aging, it will do no harm to store them
at cooler temperatures.
Q: What about higher temperatures?
A: You should never store your cigars
above 75 degrees if you can help it. Doing so risks the hatching
of the dreaded tobacco beetle which will infest and destroy all
of the cigars contained within your humidor if left unabated.
Soon we will be publishing
the most in depth article ever written about the tobacco beetle
and cigars.
Q: Which is worse: low
humidity or high humidity?
A: High humidity is of greater concern
than low for a few reasons:
1) High humidity can cause some cigars to split,
most won't, but it does happen.
2) Cigar won't burn or draw as well at high humidity,
i.e.. a cigar stored at 65%RH will typically smoke great, while
one at 75% is likely to be tight and burn uneven.
3) High humidity greatly increases your chance of
mold.
So personally I would be more
concerned with high humidity than low humidity, however it is
still nothing to get overly concerned about. I wouldn't sweat
anything 73% RH or lower as your humidor will bring it down with
time. If it doesn't, then I suggest you just leave the lid of
you humidor open for a few hours to help dry out the interior.
Q: Even with the lid open the relative humidity
is still too high. Now what?
A: If you live in region where the ambient
relative humidity is greater than 70% then you may need to change
your humidifier's charge to 75% PG and very little distilled
water. This near water free combo will help to draw high humidity
down. This combo is only needed for those who live in the most
humid region and are not running air conditioning. Check you
ambient RH with your hygrometer before applying this advice.
Q: Can I convert my end table into a humidor?
A: Maybe, but not likely. Most furniture
does not provide the quality seal that is required to maintain
a stable relative humidity. Also furniture is simply not designed
to endure the continual stress that a humidor commonly endures
from having such a drastically different RH on its interior compare
to its exterior surface. Most furniture will eventually warp
and in some cases split under the pressures.
Humidor Humidity Troubleshooting
Hints:
The first thing to do is relax.
I know I have said this a zillion times already, but I can not
emphasize it enough. Most new smokers have heard the mantra of
70/70 so often and so loudly that they are simply wound too tight.
Consider this your deprogramming from the "70/70 Zealots"
evil ways.
Patience is the key, do not
expect anything to happen within a few hours. This is difficult
for some to accept, but you just have to. Overreacting is
the number one problem. Most humidors and humidifiers will
function as desired if afforded the time they need to do the
job.
If the relative humidity is too low:
1) Add distilled water to the credo but do not
oversaturate. Remember a Credo requires time to stabilize also...
give it a couple of days before you judge the results.
2) Visually inspect the humidor checking all the
seal lines and joints. A great way to do this is to place a lit
flashlight into your humidor, close the lid, and inspect in a
dark room. If there are any poorly fitted joints or seal the
light will show through.
3) Confirm all the exterior sides are sealed with
a high quality poly product.
Still low?
Then:
1) Add a
second credo.
2) Recheck
the accuracy of your hygrometer.
Still too
low? Then:
1) Take the
entire humidor and place it in a large plastic trash bag, squeeze
out the excess air, and seal for a few days.
2) Then open
and check the humidity, if it is okay now then the humidor has
some sort of problem that is not visually discernable, and you
should contact the manufacturer/retailer of your humidor.
If the relative humidity is too high:
1) You probably over saturated the humidifier. Pull
it out and give it a couple of days to dry out. If you live in
an area where the ambient humidity is higher than 70% then you
should utilize a hair dryer set on LOW COOL AIR ONLY to assist
in drying out your credo.
2) Open the humidor and allow it to dry also.
Still too
high? Then:
1) Completely rinse out your credo with distilled
water and completely dry it out. Recharge with a 75% PG/25% Distilled
Water mixture. The PG to Water ratio is not an exact science,
and in areas with high humidity the 75/25 mixture does a better
job of regulating.
2) Recheck
the accuracy of your hygrometer.
3) Perform
the above mentioned plastic bag trick.
I hope that you have found
this common sense approach to cigar storage informative. Most
of the content is based upon my personal experience and that
of my fellow cigar smokers who have been smoking and aging cigars
for decades. It was my intent to try to write something straight-forward
and detailed not only for the new cigar smoker, but also as a
reference for those with some experience. And most importantly,
I wanted to try to dispell many of the Cigar Storage myths that
so many others continue to espouse wrongly. If there is anything
one thing that I would hope you would take from this primer it
is this: Be patient, worry less, and always remember, "Cigar
Smoking is an Art, not a Science." |
